pp 183, Rs 500; Palimpsest Publishers
The current border standoff between India and China alongside what’s the Indo-Tibetan border has captured worldwide information headlines. On this standoff, China enjoys a number of benefits by way of army energy, infrastructure, street and an increasing rail community which can hyperlink Nepal with Tibet, though India is quick catching up. China additionally has the benefit of sitting atop the world’s highest and largest plateau, the supply of Asia’s six main rivers which China plans to dam and divert, no matter downstream considerations. However these benefits are offset by India’s endurance and its historic and deep-rooted cultural and religious bonds with the Buddhist Himalayan belt, which irreversibly identifies with India. The one exception to that is Nepal, which is willingly falling on the lap of the Chinese language motherland.
In a go to to Northeast India in 2012, the Dalai Lama as soon as referred to the Buddhist Himalayan belt as India’s “frontline,” completely oriented in direction of India’s open, plural society and the freedoms that go together with it.
Part of the belt, India’s northeast, is explored by Nirmalya Banerjee in his leisurely and wealthy travelogue, The Buddha and the Borders. He has lined for himself and for India the entire of the japanese Himalayas, Kalimpong, Sikkim, the dominion of Bhutan and Arunachal Pradesh. In all of them, Banerjee discovered a typical cultural thread, the lama dances carried out by monks whose “lives revolve across the monasteries dotting your entire stretch of the japanese Himalayas from Bhutan, Sikkim, Kalimpong as much as Tawang.”
One place Banerjee explores in fascinating element is Kalimpong, which the author considers “a jewel within the Himalayan crown.” Kalimpong as soon as served as an entree-port for Tibet, Sikkim and Bhutan. These had been the times when “the mule prepare” working between Tibet and the Indian hill station ferried wool from Tibet on its onward journey to Calcutta and shipped to Britain and America.
Banerjee writes, “Previous to the 1962 border warfare between India and China, Kalimpong was a serious city centre near the assembly level of India, Tibet, Bhutan and Sikkim… Due to its locational benefit, Kalimpong had emerged as a convergence centre of commerce and commerce, governance and regional politics, a playground of worldwide intrigues evocative of Kipling’s Nice Recreation. What was as soon as a silk path to Tibet is now a blind alley operating right into a Chinese language wall.”
Because the fall of Tibet in 1950 to 1959 when Tibetans rose up towards Chinese language rule, Kalimpong due to its shut proximity to Tibet served as a listening publish to events desperate to know what communist China was as much as on the Roof of the World. India’s first Prime Minsiter Pandit Jawarhalal Nehru in his non-aligned exasperation referred to as Kalimpong “a nest of spies.”
A view of Kalimpong at present.
In his exploration of the cultures and sentiments of the individuals of the Northeastern Himalayas, Banerjee makes it abundantly clear that within the new Nice Recreation performed out between Asia’s two dominant powers, the Buddhist Himalayan Belt stands resolutely with India. The area’s cultural cohesion and the religious depth and hyperlinks with India are one thing China can solely envy. It appears for the creator, a devoted and equally fascinated explorer of the japanese Himalayas, the Buddha guards the border for India. The truth is, Banerjee is one of some students to make a convincing case for the hyperlink between the immense stability of the Himalayan Belt and Buddhism. He credit the “quiet area of japanese Himalayas hallowed by the benign presence of Buddhism in “the footsteps of lamas down the centuries.”
Looming giant behind Banerjee’s narrative of the japanese Himalayas is the query of Tibet. Impartial Tibet shared the longest unguarded border on the planet with India. Freely crossing the border down the centuries had been pilgrims, merchants, students and college students from either side. They weren’t hassled by checkpoints, border patrol or any visa necessities. It was some of the open borders on the planet between two international locations with a shared tradition and primarily based on belief and mutual respect.
In contemplating the scenario in Tibet and this aspect of the Himalayas, a reader of The Buddha and the Border is left with a query. Why is Tibet racked by fixed turmoil and the Buddhist Himalayan Belt not? Maybe the reply lies within the nature of governance in Tibet and the Buddhist Himalayan Belt. In Tibet Beijing’s rule is enforced by brute pressure and down south by the rule of regulation.
Thubten Samphel is an impartial researcher and a former director of the Tibet Coverage Institute.